Four gears in Provence
Ian Kerr goes classic in Provence
Sunshine, French cuisine and classic bikes on our doorstep...
Have you ever tried explaining to anybody who does not ride a motorcycle why you do? Personally I never bother; I just smile and change the subject. It really is not worth it and the reality is that it is almost impossible, because there are so many reasons why you do.
One of the many reasons we all do revolves around travel of course and the joy of experiencing countries and the various cultures from a vehicle that allows you use all your senses. No metal box with air conditioning can allow you to smell the local flora, fauna, and the sea, the crisp, truly fresh air of the Alps, or even the local cooking smells.
The sun beating down as you sweep round bend after bend, revealing one magnificent vista after another with boots lightly skimming the tarmac has to be experienced to be believed. The ability to stop at random and enjoy the views, the hospitality of the local people, or to leave the beaten highway to explore is just magical!
But, this is already known to readers of this august organ. However, if modern bikes have a problem it is that they are too fast, but they fit in with modern life that flies past far too quickly as well.
One way to slow it down and put life back in perspective is to travel back in time by enjoying classic motorcycles in settings appropriate to their age and style!
The area Provence are based in has become very popular over the past few years with people looking to escape the congested UK mainland and looking for a better, somewhat slower pace of life in a more temperate climate.
This is not a new phenomena for the area though; it has attracted writers, poets and artists from all over the world for many years, seduced by its weather, scenery and lifestyle.
One such person was the artist Vincent Van Gogh, who remarked on the region in a personal letter "...nature here is extraordinarily beautiful everywhere, and over all the vault of the sky is marble blue. The sun sheds a radiance of pale sulphur that is soft and lovely. What a country!"
Van Gogh was undoubtedly right, as I know from previous trips to the region, the scenery is absolutely stunning and coupled with its magnificent yet quiet roads, there exists all the ingredients for a perfect day's motorcycling made even better if it is on classic bikes that blend in with the relaxed lifestyle.
Brit Neil Thomas, the proprietor of Classic Bike Provence was quick to recognise this and with his charming wife Sarah they run the business from the picturesque Provencal village of Ventabren 25km North West of Marseille.
I took an hour's flight from Gatwick to Marseille and took advantage of Neil's free shuttle service from the airport for the twenty minute drive to their HQ.
Beneath their typical French property sits the 'cave' full of bikes that all have pet names. There are nine, including a classic Honda at present. For me it was a a real injection of nostalgia. The 650 BSA A65 was my first big bike after passing me test, then there was the oil in the frame Triumph 650 that I traded it in for. A Norton 850 Commando brought back memories of an old girlfriend . . . All the bikes apart from the Sunbeam S8 are clean and tidy examples that make you feel at home. The bikes are all sensible classics from the sixties and early seventies and need no special skills to ride them. All have been carefully maintained and in the past two years there have been no major mechanical failures. If anybody does want modern bikes, these can be sourced, but they come outside the general pricing structure and would not be used in conjunction with a classic bike tour for obvious reasons.
Neil starts each day from the base, picking up the clients from their accommodation if necessary and then having a briefing and choosing the day's itinerary. Although set tours are advertised on the excellent website, he is very flexible and apart from the two and five day versions, he can adapt on the day as we did. Having discussed it at some length and due to my brief stay we decided to just criss-cross the area to see the major landmarks, rather than do the set routes. This would mean the days would be longer than normal, but personally I was glad as it meant that I could ride more of the bikes!
Normally the daily tours start with riders picking a mount from the stable. This then gets swapped for another during the day, so clients can experience as wide a range as possible.
Frm base it is straight out onto the diverse natural landscape so riders get the flavour of things very quickly. It also allows those not used to riding on the other side of the road or dealing with right foot gear changes a chance to adapt on the quieter roads before meeting any real traffic.
Literally the whole local area of France is available to ride with a chance to experience the azure coastline of the Côte Bleue and the maritime centres of Marseille, Cassis, and Méjean. You can head inland to the majestic peaks of Mt Saint Victoire, Mt Ventoux, and the rolling hills of the Luberon to the breathtaking depths of the world famous Gorges du Verdon. Fans of cycling will enjoy riding Ventoux, one of the most famous sections of the Tour de France where Brit Tommy Simpson died in 1967 when pushing too hard on the climb up. Then there are the acclaimed vineyards of the Coteaux d'Aix region, or a ride through the Camargue, to a breathtaking run along the picturesque Route des Cretes. There are also two day rides taking in some of the mountain villages of the lower Alps, or a five day trip to Corsica! Most of the trips are suitable for riders of varying experience and ability. Pillions can accompany riders free.
Many of the locations that Neil takes you too are those not normally frequented by tourists, even the resorts are those typically populated by the French holidaymaker. This means that you really do get immersed in the culture. In addition it means you end up on spectacular roads that are not full of tourists doing unpredictable manoeuvres every time a new view presents itself.
The bikes are very well maintained, but drum brakes are not as good as modern disc brakes! Neil admitted our pace was slightly faster than normal to try and fit everything in to my short stay. Personally I was really enjoying pushing the bikes a bit and realising how much bikes have improved, as well as reliving my youth! Maybe it really is a case of "the older I get6 the faster I was", because these bikes made me realise rose tinted spectacles are as good as a Spielberg movie in making you believe things!
Normally frequent stops are made during each day's ride for sightseeing, refreshments, and photo opportunities. Actual riding times vary between about 4-5 hours per day. The traffic level in the Provencal countryside is in general very light, so you can ride at your own pace and enjoy the scenery, but due to this you still cover fair distances.
Return to base saw the bikes being cleaned and checked before quick shower and one of Sarah's excellent meals, plus a glass or two of the fine local grape extract. Normally clients make their own arrangements for accommodation, so they can control the costs, although apparently most seem to eat at the CB HQ and take advantage of the shuttle bus back to their digs.
Accommodation in the area ranges from simple auberges (hostels) & chambres d'hotes (B&B's) up to 2 & 3 star hotels to and even a luxurious chateaux. For those whose partners want to accompany them but do not want to ride, or even those who just want to combine a couple of days riding with other pursuits, there is plenty in the area to do and see. For the active there is everything from hot air ballooning to canoeing, and golf. But, for those into culture there are cookery lessons, wine tasting, and watercolour painting among other activities. Lastly those who want to take home something chic, there is plenty of retail therapy in the nearby city of Aix en Provence which is a veritable shopper's paradise.
My second day saw me reacquainted with the Norton after twenty odd years and I found it difficult to concentrate on the bike as the memories came flooding back. Thankfully the weather was better and most importantly it was dry, even if it was overcast! Neil normally just has sun to contend with. We headed inland for some picturesque villages and some mountains along with the odd magnificent gorge. Over a leisurely lunch in a castle, Neil was at pains to point out that he makes sure each tour is as relaxing and enjoyable as possible for the clients, as he is well aware that it is part of a holiday period for them. This is one of the reasons why there is so much flexibility to accommodate people. New bikes may join the CB garage to offer a greater diversity and there may be some special tours added for a bit of variety in the near future. It definitely seems that there is already a hard core of clients that keep coming back to enjoy the camaraderie that these tours are engendering. Already many friendships have been forged, a lot with Neil and Sarah and I know why. Sitting reading the guest book was interesting, the only complaint was that people had to go home, the rest of the comments were very complimentary to say the least.
The following day saw Neil taking me on one of his half day runs that he keeps for people who like me have a plane to catch. This allows them to maximise their stay and see even more of the locality. Sitting in a quaint harbour with the sun beating down, eating a very reasonably priced local dish, I had no problems seeing why Neil made the career change!
A quick stop at a local winery on the way back gave a chance to see how wine and olive oil is made, as well as getting a chance to taste some of the local produce. It was then just a last chance to sample Sarah's excellent cooking before sadly heading back to the airport. Waiting for the plane I could easily see why people return and that includes a fair few from the USA as well as from all over Europe. Classic Bike Provence has got to be one of the best motorcycle holiday firms anywhere offering real value for money. Turn up with your helmet, (they do supply if you really need one) go for a ride and then head off, no fuss no worries!. De-stressing at its very best and in the words of Schwarzenegger "I'll be back".
Ian Kerr
Information: Classic Bike Provence, Mas Peiro Fleurido, Quartier Peyre Plantade, 13122 VENTABREN, France.
By phone: +33 (0)4 42 28 76 10.
cbprovence@freeuk.com
How to get there
There are good value flights direct into Marseille with British Airways from London Gatwick and Easyjet from Stansted. There is a daily service into Nimes [60mls west of Aix en Provence] from London Stansted with Ryanair. CB Provence offer a transfer service to & from Nimes Airport to your hotel/Chambre d'Hote for 20 euro each way.
Thomson Flights, launched a new direct daily service early in 2004 from Coventry to Marseille which runs through the summer season and there is a long running direct daily service all year round from Dublin to Nice with Aer Lingus.CB Provence offer a free transfer to and from Marseille-Provence airport to your hotel/Chambre d'Hote but unfortunately due to distance involved (approx 100mls) they cannot usually offer an airport pickup service at Nice, although there is an excellent bus & rail service to & from Aix en Provence. Or you can take the high speed TGV train from London Waterloo to Aix/Marseille.
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